An audio diary of Palestine

Travel has been central to my work as sound editor and field recordist, shaping how I listen to and perceive the world. My recordings often balance ecological sensitivity with social awareness, creating liminal soundscapes that reveal unseen or forgotten aspects of life.

In June 2023, I travelled to Palestine — not knowing that, within months, the region would face unimaginable devastation. 

On my arrival in the West Bank, I was warmly welcomed by locals, which allowed me to fully immerse myself in the soundscape and daily rhythms of life there. I recorded the sonic textures of the region — rural street life, markets, prayer calls, and the subtle hum of resilience that defines Palestinian existence.

These recordings form a deeply personal audio diary of Palestine — a document of presence, beauty, and endurance amid constant restriction.

Authentic field recordings and reimagined sounds

One of the pieces, ‘A Journey Through a Wall’ (below), captures my bus trip from Palestine back to Israel, crossing several checkpoints and passing the towering separation barrier near Bethlehem. 

The field recording portrays the tension of movement through control and confinement.

This field recording portrays the tension of movement within a system of control and confinement, and was later reimagined as ‘Fragments of Palestine’ — a serene sound bath which combined it with healing instruments. The piece acts as a peaceful mantra of solidarity, blending the lived reality of Palestine with meditative textures that speak of endurance and loss.

These works were presented in London, England, at the Rich Mix event Fragments of Palestine, and later became part of the Migration Sounds installation at the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford, in collaboration with Cities and Memory (a community of more than 2,000 artists working with field recordings) and the University of Oxford.

The recordings also became the foundation for Echoes for Palestine: a global call for sound artists to create compositions inspired by these soundscapes. The project, in partnership with Cities and Memory, led to three compilation volumes supporting children in the West Bank and Gaza through the charity Hope and Play. Building on the momentum of the project, I curated a live event under the same name in Hoxton, East London, bringing together artists and audiences to amplify Palestinian voices through sound. So far, we’ve raised nearly £1,250 for Hope and Play — with two more compilation volumes still to come.

Afterward, I was invited to join In Transit, a live event by In the Dark and LAGO Collective (which researches and responds creatively to movement, culture, and the arts), at which I presented my work ‘Fragments of Palestine’ within the theme “How We Move Through the World”. This body of work seeks to preserve and honour the sonic memory of Palestine — its beauty, its struggle, and its humanity — as an act of listening against erasure.

The original recordings

Armenian Quarter, Old Jerusalem, Israel

Here, you can listen to an old man playing his accordion in the Armenian quarter of Jerusalem. This Armenian presence dates back to the fourth century AD, when Armenia’s adoption of Christianity as its national religion led to Armenian monks settling in the city. This community is recognized as the oldest continuously existing diaspora outside the Armenian homeland.

The Souq, Bethlehem, Palestine

The city of Bethlehem is situated atop a hill at the edge of the Judaean desert, creating a unique blend of cultures. Bedouin from the desert interact with pilgrims in its market and navigate its narrow, ancient streets. 

This recording captures the ambiance of the souq: the traditional marketplace located in the city’s Old Core. The souq is a confluence of vernacular units where farmers and merchants sell fruit, vegetables, and a variety of merchandise, particularly during the early morning hours. Farmers from nearby villages such as Battir and Artas gather to sell their fresh produce, adding to the vibrant atmosphere of this historic Palestinian marketplace.

Bethlehem, Palestine

Bethlehem is situated in the West Bank, a part of Palestine; however, Israel has retained control of entrances and exits. During periods of Israeli-Palestinian conflict the city has witnessed numerous confrontations.

Due to Christian emigration, Bethlehem now has a Muslim majority, and the atmosphere feels tense. Israel’s construction of the separation wall has had a severe impact on Bethlehem’s economy and the movements of its residents. The barrier runs along the city’s northern side, mere meters from houses, exacerbating the challenges faced by the community – as you may perceive from this recording.

Bethlehem Alleys, Palestine

At the time of this recording, in the historic district of Bethlehem, visitors can easily immerse themselves in the maze of narrow alleys. Charming, tiny houses and shops adorned with Arab-patterned carpets create a picturesque scene, complemented by colorful doors. The delightful soundscape of this area was captured around the bustling central Manger Square, beyond which a congregation of stands awaits, where vendors offer a variety of Arab pastries, clothing, and nuts. Amidst the lively atmosphere, you’ll find a charming alleyway where a friendly man named Sami sells his special tea, a beloved local favorite.

A Journey Through a Wall, Bethlehem, Palestine

This recording captures my journey from Palestine back to Israel on an empty bus, which took two hours or more and involved passing through several checkpoints along the way. Israeli control is particularly noticeable in Bethlehem, where an 8-meter-tall concrete separation barrier was constructed by Israel in 2002. The stated purpose was to prevent suicide bombings and attacks, but it is widely criticized for violating international law and subjecting Palestinians to a challenging way of life, in small, prison-like communities. 

While my status as a foreigner made the journey relatively easy, Palestinians residing in the West Bank are required to apply for a permit simply to enter East Jerusalem. This adds an additional layer of complexity and restriction to the daily lives of the Palestinian population.

When I recorded these sounds in June 2023, the air in the West Bank carried both tension and resilience — a fragile rhythm of daily life persisting under pressure. Since then, everything has changed. The situation has worsened dramatically; displacement, grief, and fear have deepened, especially among the children. I remain in close contact with Hope and Play, who continue to monitor and support the efforts to provide even the most basic conditions for kids — many of them orphans — across the West Bank and Gaza. Listening back to these recordings now feels like opening a time capsule from a world that was already wounded, but is now even more broken.

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Featured photo: Bethlehem Wall, West Bank – Palestine, June 2023
All photos courtesy Rafael Diogo